With Epicerie Boulud, Daniel Boulud and his crew have raised the bar for sandwich-pastry shops in New York. It's a genre that was already improved by Thomas Keller's Bouchon Bakery, a mere long baguette's length away in the Time-Warner Building—but the sheer breadth, depth and astoundingly consistent quality of the offerings at Epicerie Boulud will make it the envy of Keller and every other world-class chef who attempts to scale the sandwich shop-bakery mountain.
Daniel Boulud's latest project is Epicerie Boulud, just next to Bar Boulud; it's both eat-in cafe and take-out market, with morning pastries, lunchtime sandwiches, and all-day meats and cheeses (the charcuterie cured in-house; the cheeses curated by Saxelby Cheesemongers).
Boulud Sud, the newest restaurant from esteemed French chef Daniel Boulud, may be getting a great deal of critical attention these days, but I've been finding the attached cafe-boulangerie-patisserie—Epicerie Boulud—just as fascinating. Daniel and crew are doing so much and on so many fronts that I can't fit all my thoughts in one post. So stay tuned for a full review later tonight. Right now? Let's talk about their pastries.
The yeasty heart of the Daniel Boulud empire is hidden at the end of an East Village alley, through an unmarked door, and down a long, brightly-lit corridor. There, amid a phalanx of stainless steel ovens, mixers, and other machines, genial master baker Mark Fiorentino and his team of assistants turn out a dizzying array of breads for Boulud's half dozen restaurants.
From two new bakeries opened by Daniel Boulud alums to ice cream shops and Cuban diners with killer dessert menus, 2011 saw all sorts of sweets destinations opening up in New York. Here are 10 of our favorite sugary bites from new shops in the city.
The holiday season brings with it all sorts of rich tastes and smells: eggnog and warm apple cider; the scent of baking cookies and gingerbread; cozy spices of cinnamon and nutmeg. But then there's peppermint, and the million different ways restaurants, bakeries and coffee shops in this city incorporate it into desserts. From housemade peppermint patties to candy cane ice cream, deciding where to start is the hardest part. Check our ten of our favorites.
When you eat out as much as I do, summing up a year of eating is excruciatingly difficult. It's one of those "tough jobs, but someone has to do it." So here goes: a baker's dozen of things that made my 2013.