Reviews generally start with an introduction, but I'm going to start this one with beef tongue. Because as I sit at my computer it keeps popping into my head, the memory of it, as it has been ever since my visit to Perla last week. Beef tongue with a whisper-thin crust that gives you just the slightest resistance before you get to the impossibly tender meat underneath. Beef tongue that's been in brine for a week before it's braised, then charred. "I can't stop thinking about that beef tongue," confessed the friend I'd brought to dinner the next day, in a conspiratorial tone, over coffee. It does that to you.
Perla is young yet, but we've only had good things to say about them. The menu is solid across the board, so it only followed that a menu that touted so many dishes pulled from a wood-burning oven would make outstanding pizza as well. We've been three times for pizza (and Toscano was there each time), and we found very good pizza twice, somewhat disappointing pizza once. What happened? Let's break it down.
There's no shortage of first-class cocktail bars in Manhattan. But increasingly, some of the best drinks in town come from the bars of restaurants. Here are our 10 favorite restaurant bars of late, with drinks the equal of any dedicated cocktail bar in town.
Chef Michael Toscano is known for using off cuts of animals with refinement and skill at Little Wisco's Perla. "I feel like whenever I create dishes with those parts I try to make it to where anybody can eat and anybody would be surprised by it." We caught up on exactly how he does that, and where it all came from.
When it comes to eating with family, you want a place that's reliable, reasonably affordable, and low on hassle. There's plenty to worry about before a big holiday. Where to eat dinner on the nights before or after shouldn't be one of them. To that end, here are some solid restaurant options good for eating out with the folks.
There's something uniquely comforting about a big, hefty sandwich, and New York might have the world's greatest supply. But only a few can be described as super-mega-massively-Dagwood-Bumstead-esque comically large, and fewer still that actually taste good beneath their heft. When such a sandwich comes along, we believe it deserves some recognition.