When we, as diners, talk about how delicious a plate of street food can be, it's easy to lose sight of just how tenuous the career of a street vendor—especially an immigrant street vendor—is. For this brief moment, the Arepa Lady reminded me that for those who come to America to make a new and better life for themselves, cooking (even saintly cooking of national infamy) isn't necessarily the life they have in mind.
The Arepa Lady
Here's our latest installment of What We're Eating, a look at what the Serious Eats editors have devoured and loved recently. Read through and then tell us: what dish can't you get out of your head?
Great news for fans of the Sainted Arepa Lady—street food legend Maria Cano and her family will be opening a year-round brick and mortar restaurant at 77-02AA Roosevelt Avenue later this year, close to her normal 79th and Roosevelt street corner.